A Romantic Hidden Restaurant in Paris

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From left: Le Jardin; ​salsify cut into pastalike ribbons ​with Parmesan, homemade lardo and black truffles.

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Patrick Lazic

In Paris, the popular brasserie Grand Coeur is housed in a beautiful 18th-century building that overlooks the Marais. But tucked away within Grand Coeur’s own walls now sits a hidden, intimate place to eat called Le Jardin. Both restaurants are from the Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco — who is best known for his Michelin-starred restaurant, Mirazur, on the French Riviera — and run by the Brazilian chef Rafael Gomes. “This restaurant is our secret garden,” says Gomes about Le Jardin, which opened in December.

“The idea of Le Jardin was to create a hidden and very intimate restaurant with a regularly changing menu by Mauro and me and also to host a rotation of pop-up dinners cooked by a visiting chef and me or Mauro,” says Gomes, who worked at Eleven Madison Park and Gramercy Tavern in New York before Grand Coeur. “Le Jardin gives us a chance to offer more gastronomic dishes that express Mauro’s sensibility as a chef more fully than most of what we serve on the menu at Grand Coeur.”

The name of the restaurant, and its design by the French interior architect Bruno de la Guerrande, are inspired by the huge kitchen garden that Colagreco lovingly tends outside of Mirazur in Menton. “Vegetables are an essential part of my kitchen,” he says. “They are the perfect expression of every season and every terroir. They’re at the heart of my cooking even in the winter.” To express the earthiness of Colagreco’s garden, de la Guerrande sanded down the 18th-century oak floorboards of the room; created mushroomlike pedestal tables and surrounded them with bentwood chairs; and painted the walls spruce green, upholstering the T-shaped banquette in the middle of the dining room in velvet of the same color. Protected…

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